The main hall
Near the entrance
A huge black teak hall in northern Thai temple style, with long tables, carved chairs and animal horns and skins inside.
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Chiang Rai, Thailand
Baan Dam Museum — Black House
A dark, unusual museum park of some 40 black buildings by artist Thawan Duchanee, filled with horns, bones, skins and carvings.
Favourite places
The white domes
Within the grounds
Small white domed buildings that stand out among the black halls, with art and objects inside.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Black houses and huts
Throughout the garden
Dozens of black buildings in different styles scattered through a shady garden, each holding parts of the collection.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)The artist's sculptures
Around the grounds
Carvings and installations by Thawan Duchanee, exploring death, desire and the darker side of human nature.
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Local food
Khao soi
Chiang Rai, Thailand
The signature noodle soup of northern Thailand: egg noodles in a rich coconut curry broth, usually with chicken or beef, topped with crispy fried noodles and served with pickled mustard greens, shallots and lime.
Sai ua
Chiang Rai, Thailand
Grilled northern Thai pork sausage packed with lemongrass, kaffir lime, chilli and herbs. Sold in coils at markets and eaten with sticky rice.
Nam phrik noom
Chiang Rai, Thailand
A smoky dip of roasted green chillies, garlic and shallots, eaten with sticky rice, steamed vegetables and crispy pork skin (khaep mu).
Where to eat
Cafés near the museum
Nang Lae, north of the city
A few cafés and small restaurants along the road near Baan Dam serve drinks and simple Thai dishes.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Chiang Rai Night Bazaar
Phaholyothin Road, near the bus terminal
Every evening a big food court of stalls sits in front of a stage with live music — hot pot (jim jum), grilled fish, noodles and northern dishes.
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Where to stay
Chiang Rai town centre
Chiang Rai, Thailand
Around the clock tower and the Night Bazaar: guesthouses and hotels within walking distance of restaurants, the walking streets and the bus terminal.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Kok River riverside
Chiang Rai, Thailand
Resorts and quieter hotels along the Kok River on the north side of town — greener and calmer, a short drive from the centre.
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Culture
Thawan Duchanee was one of Thailand's most celebrated artists and was named a National Artist. Baan Dam reflects his personal view of Buddhism and mortality — it is a private museum, not a temple, but treat it with respect: do not touch or sit on the exhibits.
History
National Artist Thawan Duchanee spent decades building Baan Dam as his home and studio. Its black teak halls, domes and huts hold his art and collections — a dramatic, sometimes unsettling counterpart to the White Temple.
Tour plans
Art of Chiang Rai
Half dayStep 1: Baan Dam
Spend an hour among the black houses.
Step 2: Blue Temple
Head back towards town to Wat Rong Suea Ten.
Step 3: Clock tower at night
Finish with the evening light show and dinner at the Night Bazaar.
Map
Travel information
Best time to visit
November to February; morning or late afternoon, when the black buildings are less hot to walk between.
How to get there
About 13 km north of the city — local buses towards Mae Sai stop nearby, or take a Grab.
Getting around
Chiang Rai's centre is small and easy to walk. For the temples outside town use Grab, a tuk-tuk or a hired car with driver; local buses from the old bus terminal (by the Night Bazaar) run north towards Mae Sai and south towards the White Temple. Buses towards Mae Sai can drop you on the main road near Baan Dam; a Grab is simpler.
Travel tips
Allow about an hour; some displays may not suit sensitive visitors.