The central prang
Centre of the temple platform
A tall Khmer-style prang standing for Mount Meru, the centre of the Buddhist universe, ringed by four smaller prangs.
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Ayutthaya, Thailand
Wat Chaiwatthanaram
A Khmer-style temple ruin on the west bank of the Chao Phraya, with a central prang ringed by smaller towers — magical at sunset.
Favourite places
The eight chapels (meru)
Around the gallery
Eight chedi-shaped chapels stand at the corners and sides of the old cloister. Inside, the remains of stucco reliefs of the Buddha's life can still be seen.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Rows of Buddha images
Along the gallery walls
Seated Buddha images, most headless and some draped in saffron cloth, line the gallery around the central prang.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Riverside view
East side, by the Chao Phraya
The temple faces the river, and the view of it from the water on an evening boat tour is one of the best in Ayutthaya.
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Local food
Grilled river prawns (goong mae nam pao)
Ayutthaya, Thailand
Giant freshwater prawns grilled over charcoal and served with a spicy seafood dip. The riverside restaurants around Ayutthaya are known for them.
Boat noodles (kuay teow reua)
Ayutthaya, Thailand
Small bowls of rich, dark noodle soup with pork or beef, once sold from boats on the canals. Ayutthaya is known for them, and people usually order several bowls each.
Where to eat
Riverside restaurants on U Thong Road
Around the edge of the island
U Thong Road follows the rivers around the island, and several open-air restaurants along it serve river prawns and Thai dishes with water views.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Bang Lan night market
Bang Lan Road, middle of the island
An evening food market near the main temples with grilled meats, noodles, Thai desserts and fruit. An easy place to try several local dishes after a day of ruins.
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Where to stay
The old island (around Naresuan Road)
Ayutthaya, Thailand
Stay inside the ring of rivers and you can cycle to the main ruins in minutes. Guesthouses and small hotels cluster near the Historical Park and the night market.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Riverside near the railway station
Ayutthaya, Thailand
Across the Pa Sak River from the island, close to the trains from Bangkok. Riverside guesthouses here are a short ferry or bridge ride from the old town.
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Culture
Even in ruins these are sacred places: dress modestly (shoulders and knees covered), do not climb on Buddha images or ruined walls, and never pose in a way that puts your head above a Buddha image or turns your back to it for a selfie. Headless Buddha images are a reminder of the sack of 1767 and of later looting — treat them with the same respect as a whole image. The temple is a popular place for photos in rented Ayutthaya-period costume — a respectful way locals enjoy the site.
History
King Prasat Thong built Wat Chaiwatthanaram in 1630 in honour of his mother, modelling it on Angkor's temples. It was restored in the 1990s and is lit up in the evening.
Tour plans
West bank sunset
Half dayStep 1: Wat Lokayasutharam
Start with the Reclining Buddha on the island.
Step 2: Cross the river
Cycle or take a tuk-tuk over the bridge to the west bank.
Step 3: Wat Chaiwatthanaram
Walk the gallery and watch the sun go down.
Step 4: Dinner by the river
River prawns at a restaurant on U Thong Road.
Map
Travel information
Best time to visit
November–February; late afternoon for the sunset behind the prangs, staying on into the evening when the ruins are lit up.
How to get there
Cycle across the bridge or take a tuk-tuk; river boat tours stop here.
Getting around
The old city sits on an island formed by three rivers, and the main ruins are spread out across it. A rented bicycle is the classic way to see them — the island is flat, but the sun is strong, so start early. Tuk-tuks can be hired by the hour for a temple circuit; agree the route and time before you set off. Sights off the island, such as Wat Chaiwatthanaram and Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon, are easier by tuk-tuk or on an evening boat tour around the island.
Travel tips
Go late afternoon for the sunset, and stay for the lights.
