Chiang Mai, Thailand
The great ruined brick chedi in the middle of the old city, once the tallest building in Lanna and the home of the Emerald Buddha.
Centre of the temple grounds
The massive brick ruin, still one of the largest structures in the old city. Its base is guarded by stone elephants and its four sides have naga stairways leading up to niches with Buddha images.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)East face of the chedi
Where the Emerald Buddha sat in the 15th and 16th centuries. A black jade replica was placed here in 1995 for the chedi’s 600th anniversary.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)In front of the chedi, facing the road
A large assembly hall with naga stairs at the entrance and a tall standing Buddha image, Phra Chao Attarot, inside.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Near the main entrance
The shrine of Chiang Mai's city pillar, moved here from its original site in 1800. By tradition women do not enter the pillar shrine itself.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Tables in the temple grounds
Novice monks sit at tables to practise English and answer questions about Buddhism and monastic life — a friendly way to learn about the temple.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Next door, on Prapokklao Road
A small temple with a beautiful old viharn built entirely of teak, once part of a royal residence. Its carved wooden gable is a fine example of Lanna craftsmanship.
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Chiang Mai, Thailand
The signature noodle soup of northern Thailand: egg noodles in a rich coconut curry broth, usually with chicken or beef, topped with crispy fried noodles and served with pickled mustard greens, shallots and lime.
Chiang Mai, Thailand
Fresh rice noodles in a tangy tomato and pork broth flavoured with dried red cotton-tree flowers — a Lanna favourite for breakfast or lunch.
Chiang Mai, Thailand
Grilled northern Thai pork sausage packed with lemongrass, kaffir lime, chilli and herbs. Sold in coils at markets and eaten with sticky rice.
Chiang Mai Gate, south side of the old city
A local fresh market by day and a busy street-food market in the evening, with noodles, grilled meats, curries over rice and Thai desserts.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Ratchadamnoen Road, a few steps north
On Sunday evenings the temple courtyards along Ratchadamnoen Road turn into food courts serving northern dishes.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Prapokklao and Ratchamanka roads
Small family-run shops in the surrounding lanes serve khao soi, noodle soups and curries over rice at lunchtime.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Chiang Mai, Thailand
Quiet lanes of guesthouses and boutique hotels between the temples, within walking distance of Tha Phae Gate and the Sunday Walking Street. The easiest base for first-time visitors.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Chiang Mai, Thailand
East of Tha Phae Gate, between the Night Bazaar and the Ping River: larger hotels, riverside restaurants and Warorot Market close by.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Wat Chedi Luang is home to the city pillar, and every May–June Chiang Mai holds the Inthakin festival here, when people bring flowers and candles to honour the city's guardian spirits. Cover shoulders and knees, take your shoes off before entering a hall, and never point your feet at a Buddha image or a monk. Walk around a chedi clockwise, keeping it on your right. Women should not touch monks or hand things to them directly.
Begun in the 14th century and enlarged in the 15th, the chedi once rose to around 80 metres before an earthquake brought its top down in the 1500s. The Emerald Buddha, now in Bangkok, sat in its eastern niche for some 80 years.
The temple also holds the city pillar, and runs friendly "monk chats" where visitors can talk with novice monks.
Start early at the great chedi and the city pillar shrine; stop for a monk chat.
Step next door to see the teak viharn.
Walk west along Ratchamanka or Ratchadamnoen Road to the Viharn Lai Kham.
Try khao soi or khanom jeen nam ngiao in a local shop nearby.
All year, coolest from November to February; visit in the early morning for soft light, or after dark when the chedi is floodlit.
In the centre of the old city on Prapokklao Road — walk or cycle.
The temple is in the very middle of the old city, so walking or cycling is easiest. From outside the moat, any red songthaew or Grab driver knows Wat Chedi Luang.
Cover shoulders and knees and take your shoes off before entering the halls. Sarongs are usually available to borrow or rent at the entrance. Come back after dark, when the chedi is lit up.
