The Reclining Buddha
Open field in the centre of the site
A 42-metre brick-and-stucco Buddha lies on its right side with its head resting on a lotus, the posture of the Buddha entering nirvana.
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Ayutthaya, Thailand
Wat Lokayasutharam
A 42-metre reclining Buddha lying in the open air among the ruins west of the royal palace.
Favourite places
Pillar bases of the old viharn
Around the Buddha
Rows of octagonal pillar stumps show that the Buddha once lay inside a great hall, long since gone.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Offering tables
In front of the Buddha
Worshippers leave flowers, incense and gold leaf here, and the saffron cloth draped over the image is replaced regularly.
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Local food
Boat noodles (kuay teow reua)
Ayutthaya, Thailand
Small bowls of rich, dark noodle soup with pork or beef, once sold from boats on the canals. Ayutthaya is known for them, and people usually order several bowls each.
Roti sai mai
Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya's signature sweet: thin, soft roti wrappers rolled around fine threads of coloured spun sugar. Sold in bags from stalls on U Thong Road and around town to take home.
Where to eat
Food stalls by the site
Next to the Reclining Buddha
A few small stalls sell drinks, snacks and souvenirs beside the field.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Bang Lan night market
Bang Lan Road, middle of the island
An evening food market near the main temples with grilled meats, noodles, Thai desserts and fruit. An easy place to try several local dishes after a day of ruins.
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Where to stay
The old island (around Naresuan Road)
Ayutthaya, Thailand
Stay inside the ring of rivers and you can cycle to the main ruins in minutes. Guesthouses and small hotels cluster near the Historical Park and the night market.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Riverside near the railway station
Ayutthaya, Thailand
Across the Pa Sak River from the island, close to the trains from Bangkok. Riverside guesthouses here are a short ferry or bridge ride from the old town.
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Culture
Even in ruins these are sacred places: dress modestly (shoulders and knees covered), do not climb on Buddha images or ruined walls, and never pose in a way that puts your head above a Buddha image or turns your back to it for a selfie. Headless Buddha images are a reminder of the sack of 1767 and of later looting — treat them with the same respect as a whole image. Do not sit or lean against the Buddha, and walk around it rather than stepping over the offerings.
History
The temple buildings around it have long gone, leaving the huge brick-and-plaster Buddha resting on its right side, head on a lotus. Visitors often drape it with a saffron cloth.
Tour plans
West of the palace
Half dayStep 1: Wat Phra Si Sanphet
The three royal chedis.
Step 2: Wat Lokayasutharam
Cycle five minutes west to the Reclining Buddha.
Step 3: Wat Chaiwatthanaram
Cross the river for sunset.
Travel information
Best time to visit
November–February; early morning or late afternoon, as there is no shade around the Buddha.
How to get there
Cycle or tuk-tuk from Wat Phra Si Sanphet (about 5 minutes).
Getting around
The old city sits on an island formed by three rivers, and the main ruins are spread out across it. A rented bicycle is the classic way to see them — the island is flat, but the sun is strong, so start early. Tuk-tuks can be hired by the hour for a temple circuit; agree the route and time before you set off. Sights off the island, such as Wat Chaiwatthanaram and Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon, are easier by tuk-tuk or on an evening boat tour around the island.
Travel tips
Free to visit; good to combine with the palace area.
