Chiang Mai, Thailand
Chiang Mai's most famous temple, high on Doi Suthep mountain: a golden chedi, a 306-step naga staircase and wide views over the city.
Central courtyard at the top
The gilded chedi said to hold the relic carried by the white elephant. Pilgrims walk around it three times clockwise carrying flowers, candles and incense — you are welcome to join.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)From the car park up to the temple
Over 300 steps flanked by long serpent (naga) balustrades with glittering scales. Climbing it is part of the pilgrimage; a funicular lift runs alongside for those who prefer not to.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Outer terrace on the east side
A wide terrace looking down over Chiang Mai, the old city square and the airport runway. Clearest after the rains, hazy in the smoky months of March and April.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Near the top of the stairs
A statue of the white elephant from the founding legend, often draped with garlands by worshippers.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Around the inner courtyard
Rows of bells line the cloisters around the chedi; visitors ring them for good luck. The cloister walls carry murals of the Buddha’s life.
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Chiang Mai, Thailand
The signature noodle soup of northern Thailand: egg noodles in a rich coconut curry broth, usually with chicken or beef, topped with crispy fried noodles and served with pickled mustard greens, shallots and lime.
Chiang Mai, Thailand
Grilled northern Thai pork sausage packed with lemongrass, kaffir lime, chilli and herbs. Sold in coils at markets and eaten with sticky rice.
Chiang Mai, Thailand
A smoky dip of roasted green chillies, garlic and shallots, eaten with sticky rice, steamed vegetables and crispy pork skin (khaep mu).
Doi Suthep car park
Simple stalls and snack shops by the car park sell drinks, noodles, grilled snacks and fruit.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)West of the old city
Dozens of cafés and restaurants in the lanes (soi) off Nimmanhaemin Road, from northern Thai food to international dishes.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Huay Kaew and Suthep roads
Student food stalls and casual noodle and rice shops at the foot of the mountain, on the way up or down.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Chiang Mai, Thailand
A modern area west of the old city near Chiang Mai University, full of cafés, restaurants, malls and condo-hotels. Closest to the road up Doi Suthep.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Chiang Mai, Thailand
Quiet lanes of guesthouses and boutique hotels between the temples, within walking distance of Tha Phae Gate and the Sunday Walking Street. The easiest base for first-time visitors.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Doi Suthep is the city's guardian mountain and a place of real pilgrimage for northern Thais — many climb it on foot from the city on the eve of Visakha Bucha. Cover shoulders and knees, take your shoes off before entering a hall, and never point your feet at a Buddha image or a monk. Walk around a chedi clockwise, keeping it on your right. Women should not touch monks or hand things to them directly.
Legend says a white elephant carrying a relic of the Buddha climbed the mountain in the 14th century, trumpeted three times and died on this spot — so the temple was built here. The gleaming chedi is one of the holiest sites in northern Thailand.
Climb the long naga staircase or take the funicular, then walk round the chedi clockwise as pilgrims do.
Take a songthaew or Grab from the Chiang Mai University area to reach the temple before the crowds.
Climb the naga staircase, walk around the chedi and enjoy the view from the terrace.
Continue a few kilometres up the road to the royal winter palace gardens or the Hmong village of Doi Pui.
Head down for khao soi or a coffee in the Nimmanhaemin area.
November to February for clear, cool air; go early in the morning before the tour groups, or late afternoon for the light over the city.
Shared red songthaews leave from near Chiang Mai University; a Grab or taxi takes 30–40 minutes from the old city.
The temple sits about 15 km from the old city on a steep, winding road. Red songthaews gather near Chiang Mai University's main gate and leave when full; you can also hire one for the round trip including Bhubing Palace. Grab works both ways. Riding a scooter up is possible but only for confident riders — the bends are sharp.
Cover shoulders and knees and take your shoes off before entering the halls. Sarongs are usually available to borrow or rent at the entrance. Go early morning or near sunset for clearer views and cooler air.
