Chiang Rai, Thailand
Chiang Rai's dazzling all-white temple, covered in mirrored glass and full of symbolism — a life's work by artist Chalermchai Kositpipat.
Approach to the main hall
A white bridge crossing a pit of hundreds of reaching hands, standing for desire and suffering. Crossing it represents leaving temptation behind. Walking is one way only.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Centre of the temple
The dazzling white hall covered in mirrored glass. Inside, the murals mix Buddhist imagery with modern figures from films and comics. Photography is not allowed inside.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Beside the main hall
A gold-decorated building that is in fact the restrooms — gold here stands for worldly desire, set apart from the pure white temple.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Along the walkways
Visitors write wishes on small silver pendants and hang them on the metal trees around the grounds.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Near the exit
A gallery showing Chalermchai Kositpipat's paintings, with reproductions for sale.
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Chiang Rai, Thailand
The signature noodle soup of northern Thailand: egg noodles in a rich coconut curry broth, usually with chicken or beef, topped with crispy fried noodles and served with pickled mustard greens, shallots and lime.
Chiang Rai, Thailand
Fresh rice noodles in a tangy tomato and pork broth flavoured with dried red cotton-tree flowers — a Lanna favourite for breakfast or lunch.
Chiang Rai, Thailand
Grilled northern Thai pork sausage packed with lemongrass, kaffir lime, chilli and herbs. Sold in coils at markets and eaten with sticky rice.
Wat Rong Khun car park
Stalls and simple restaurants around the car park serve noodle soups, rice dishes and drinks.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Phaholyothin Road, near the bus terminal
Every evening a big food court of stalls sits in front of a stage with live music — hot pot (jim jum), grilled fish, noodles and northern dishes.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Thanalai Road, town centre
On Saturday evenings Thanalai Road closes to traffic and fills with handicraft stalls and street food — sai ua, grilled skewers and northern snacks.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Chiang Rai, Thailand
Around the clock tower and the Night Bazaar: guesthouses and hotels within walking distance of restaurants, the walking streets and the bus terminal.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Chiang Rai, Thailand
Resorts and quieter hotels along the Kok River on the north side of town — greener and calmer, a short drive from the centre.
Open in Google Maps (opens in a new tab)Wat Rong Khun is a working temple as well as an artwork — the artist intended it as an offering to the Buddha. Cover shoulders and knees, take your shoes off before entering a hall, and never point your feet at a Buddha image or a monk. Walk around a chedi clockwise, keeping it on your right. Women should not touch monks or hand things to them directly. Keep to the one-way route across the bridge.
Chalermchai Kositpipat began rebuilding this village temple in 1997 at his own cost. White stands for the Buddha's purity and the mirrors for his wisdom; to reach the main hall you cross a bridge over a sea of reaching hands, symbolising desire.
Inside, the murals mix Buddhist themes with modern pop-culture figures. The site is still growing, with a golden building (the restrooms) and new halls.
Start south of town at Wat Rong Khun.
Head north to Wat Rong Suea Ten.
Continue north to the Black House in the afternoon.
Back in town, catch the evening light show and eat at the Night Bazaar.
November to February for comfortable weather; arrive at opening time in the morning, when the light is soft and the crowds have not yet come.
About 13 km south of the city — local bus towards Chiang Mai, songthaew or Grab (about 20 minutes).
Chiang Rai's centre is small and easy to walk. For the temples outside town use Grab, a tuk-tuk or a hired car with driver; local buses from the old bus terminal (by the Night Bazaar) run north towards Mae Sai and south towards the White Temple. Many visitors hire a car or tuk-tuk for the day to see the White, Blue and Black temples together.
Cover shoulders and knees and take your shoes off before entering the halls. Sarongs are usually available to borrow or rent at the entrance. Arrive at opening; photography is not allowed inside the main hall.
